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Kasbahs to Ergs: A Morocco Loop on Sand and Stone

A 1,600–1,900 km loop from Marrakech threads kasbah towns to the sands of Erg Chebbi and Erg Chigaga in late October, when days run 10–11 hours and desert highs sit near 24°C. Three 4x4s travel as a convoy, mixing paved valleys and classic pistes like Lac Iriki. The plan hinges on clear convoy rules, sand driving basics, and practical logistics in places like Ouarzazate, Tinghir, Rissani, Zagora, and M’Hamid. Fuel, cash, and water dictate pace; wind and flash-flooded wadis dictate route. The goal is simple: keep margins wide and connect Morocco’s fortified mud-brick towns to its open ergs safely.

The loop starts in Marrakech with serviced 4x4s—diesel Land Cruisers or Prados on all-terrains, each with two spares, a compressor, shovel, traction boards, a kinetic rope, and 20–30 liters of extra water. A local Maroc Telecom SIM boosts coverage in valleys; offline maps backstop navigation. Roles are set: lead handles navigation, a mid car carries medical kit, and a sweep packs heavy recovery. Radios keep chatter short; waypoints and daily cut-off times sit on a shared map.

The convoy keeps to daylight, targets 250–350 km on paved days and 160–200 km on piste days, and refuels whenever a reliable pump appears. From Marrakech, the N9 climbs the Tizi n’Tichka to Aït Benhaddou and Ouarzazate (about 195 km, 4–5 hours). Skoura’s palmery and Kasbah Amridil sit 40 km farther; secure guesthouses offer courtyards for vehicles and early breakfasts. Logistics are simple here: ATMs and supermarkets in Ouarzazate, cash-only auberges in Skoura, diesel (“gasoil”) widely available.

The road east to Boumalne Dades and Tinghir (roughly 170 km) sets up short detours into the Dades and Todra gorges; both have tight switchbacks better tackled without roof loads. Nights are cool—single digits—so blankets and a 0°C-rated bag are wise. Eastbound to the dunes, Tinghir to Merzouga via Erfoud and Rissani runs about 215 km. Rissani’s market days (Sunday, Tuesday, Thursday) make good resupply; ATMs and tire shops cluster near the roundabout.

In Merzouga or Hassi Labied, pick a riad with secure parking and dune access. Convoy rules tighten: 50–100 meters between cars in dust, no overtaking on piste, and the “I see your tail lights” rule—if you lose the vehicle behind, you slow or stop until it returns to sight. Junctions become regroup points, with the lead waiting at every split. Any U-turn is called on radio, then repeated slowly by each car.

Sand driving starts on the easier flanks of Erg Chebbi. Tires drop to 18–22 psi (1.2–1.5 bar); lower briefly for soft patches, then re-inflate after. Traction control and stability systems go off; center diff locks on permanent 4WDs, low range engages for controlled torque. Momentum, not speed, keeps you afloat—second or third in low range, smooth throttle, no sharp steering.

Crest dunes at an angle and stop before the knife-edge; walk unknown descents. Recovery steps are simple: stop early, dig the leading face, place boards, and back out with a gentle pull if needed. Set a hard stop two hours before sunset to avoid night recoveries. The southern leg goes Merzouga to Alnif and Tazzarine on the N12, then N’kob to Zagora (about 350–380 km), with fuel in Erfoud, Alnif, and Zagora.

M’Hamid sits 95 km farther at road’s end; gendarmerie may note passports at checkpoints. Ask locally about wind and washouts before committing to the Erg Chigaga–Lac Iriki track to Foum Zguid (160–180 km of piste, 6–9 hours moving time). In season, the track is well used, with multiple parallel lines; keep right when in doubt and avoid virgin scrub. Carry at least 4 liters of water per person per day; add an extra day’s buffer.

If a sandstorm builds or wadis hold water, the contingency is simple: return to the N12 and loop paved via Tazenakht. From Foum Zguid, pavement leads to Tazenakht and back to Aït Benhaddou or straight to Marrakech (roughly 300–360 km depending on stops). In kasbah towns, aim for lodgings with courtyards, arrive early to secure rooms, and settle bills in cash. Fuel early in the day, verify octane or diesel labeling, and check for card acceptance.

None of this loop needs special permits, but border-proximate pistes south of Taouz can be restricted; stay west of marked military zones and carry passports. The lesson holds across each segment: disciplined convoy habits, conservative tire pressures, and town-by-town logistics turn Morocco’s mix of stone valleys and soft sand into a confident, memorable loop.