A late-October loop across New Zealand’s South Island puts a small self-contained diesel camper on alpine passes, rain-soaked coast, and long one-lane bridges. The route links Christchurch to Arthur’s Pass, the West Coast glaciers, Haast Pass to Wānaka, then Lindis Pass into the Mackenzie Basin before closing the circle via Lake Tekapo. Spring brings lambs in paddocks and fresh snow dusting the ranges, with showers that can turn streams into torrents. The miles are manageable—about 1,300 to 1,500 kilometers in eight days—but the rhythm is governed by single-lane etiquette, weather margins, and knowing when to pull over and let faster traffic by.
We collect a 6.0-meter camper in Christchurch, stock up on groceries and a dump-hose fitting, and set a modest plan: no more than 250–300 kilometers per day, always arriving with daylight. Spring forecasts on the alpine routes shift quickly, so we watch Waka Kotahi (NZTA) alerts and set Arthur’s Pass (SH73) first, while snow flurries remain light. Chains aren’t required, but we note the bays and agree on roles: the passenger calls distances and blind corners; the driver commits only when the way is clear. SH73 runs 153 kilometers from Christchurch to Arthur’s Pass Village, climbing past Springfield and the limestone at Castle Hill.
Brakes get a breather at the Otira Viaduct Lookout before the long descent; kea eye the camper’s rubber seals, so we don’t leave wipers exposed. From the village it’s about 140 kilometers to Hokitika via Otira and Kumara Junction. On the way, we practice New Zealand’s single-lane bridge rules: read the priority signs, wait until the deck is fully clear, enter at a crawl, and treat a line of oncoming cars as one unit. If uncertain, yield—locals do this daily.
The West Coast is a string of river mouths and one-lane spans on SH6. Hokitika to Franz Josef Glacier is roughly 135 kilometers; Franz to Fox Glacier is another 23. Rain arrives, typical for spring, so we swap glacier road-end walks for an easier window at Lake Matheson and fuel at Fox; stations thin out toward Haast, and some close early, so we top up whenever the gauge hits half. South of Bruce Bay the sandflies find ankles fast—doors open only when necessary.
Between Haast Township and Makarora, the Gates of Haast and several smaller bridges are single-lane; we slow well before the signs, check mirrors, and avoid stopping on approaches for photos, no matter how good the gorge looks. A heavy band of rain parks over the divide, bumping rivers and loading slips. We stay put at Haast’s holiday park instead of pushing across in the afternoon—spring priorities are margins, not momentum. Morning breaks clear, and the pass goes easily: Haast to Wānaka is about 142 kilometers, with the road hugging lakes Hāwea and Wānaka.
In town we trade pace for chores: grey water out, fresh water in, LPG topped up. Camper etiquette is simple and non-negotiable: use designated dump stations (they’re signed in most towns), never empty anything in a roadside drain, pack out rubbish if bins are full, and keep generator noise and sliding doors to a minimum after dark. We head east over Lindis Pass (SH8, summit 971 meters) to Omarama and the Mackenzie Basin. Wānaka to Omarama is about 140 kilometers; Omarama to Tekapo adds roughly 95.
Spring nor’westerlies shove the high-country tussock, and the camper wanders in gusts. That’s the cue to lean on courtesy: drive to conditions, keep well left, and use slow-vehicle bays generously. We don’t wave anyone past; instead, we indicate left when pulling into a turnout and let queues clear. Passing bays are for passing, not picnics.
Freedom camping rules are strict here—self-contained only where signs allow—so we opt for a DOC site at Lake Pukaki one night, then a holiday park in Tekapo to plug in and thaw out. The last leg returns to Christchurch via Fairlie and Geraldine (about 230 kilometers from Tekapo), the braided rivers flattening into the Canterbury Plains. The trip feels longer than the numbers because the South Island teaches its own cadence. Alpine passes in spring reward early starts and conservative calls; one-lane bridges work smoothly when everyone reads the signs and yields with patience; and camper manners—pulling over, managing waste properly, respecting quiet hours—buy goodwill that matters on narrow roads.
We end with a clean tank, a lighter bin, and the satisfying sense that on this island, courtesy is as essential as diesel.